Granada

Madrid is not just the symbolic and political centre of Spain, it is essentially the geographic centre of Spain. It took a long bus ride, endless fields of olive trees passing by in the afternoon sun, to deliver me to the southern town of Granada, located at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains and only an hour from the Mediterranean coast. It is here that the Alhambra is found, an ancient Moorish complex in such excellent condition that even in the middle of winter, when the skies are grey and umbrellas are legion, it is necessary to book your ticket a day in advance.

Madrid

In Madrid I discovered the grumpiest hostel staff of my entire trip; I arrived a few hours before check-in, but I couldn't even leave my pack in the luggage room; I was only offered foul glares and curt English. Not the best start to the morning, and I followed it up by deeply confusing a waiter at a local cafe. I ordered churros (fried dough) and porras (same thing, different shape), but my pronunciation was slightly off and the waiter heard me ask for "porros". It was not until the following day that I discovered I had ordered marijuana for breakfast.